Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Thoughts On Japanese Culture


As far as I can remember my first exposure to Japanese culture was in my parent’s home. Not that I ever noticed much interest in oriental arts from them, but amongst their collection of nick-nacks there was a shelf on which lived a small collection of Japanese and Chinese objects. My father also obsessively cleaned two white Chinese porcelain figures that were on the mantle piece. These were dusted religiously to the point that he was always gluing the broken fingers back on to them. To this day I still have them, glued fingers and all, on my mantel.

The shelves contents included an oddly shaped colorful Chinese spoon and a bamboo figurine that depicted a cormorant fisherman in Japan. It took me years to figure out what these characters were actually up to. There were several other objects, but in a house with very few books this collection occupied a large part of my imagination. All the other nick-nacks had familiar shapes and decoration but not these. They were a kind of puzzle to me.

Many years went by. I attended Catholic grade school and two years of Catholic high school. There was no mention of oriental culture in either of their curriculums. But, despite our best efforts to keep the high school open it closed and I attended the local public high school. There I was exposed to, lets just say, more alternative thoughts, read my first book, Catcher in the Rye and somehow was introduced to the British author Alan Watts. Through him I discovered Zen Buddhism. After devouring all of his works I felt I needed a more direct connection. This led me to a study of Chinese poetry, D.T. Suzuki, R.H. Blyth and the work of the haiku poets. I even tired my hand at writing haiku; those 16 syllables gems that freeze a pin point in time, a nano-second, though mine were more like an afternoon.

Anyway, like the infamous computer in the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Universe, I was in Deep Thought for years. I even purchased a shakuhachi that I played late into the night in my college apartment to try and settle my mind before sleep. The more I read about oriental culture the farther away I seemed to be getting from the ideal, from a true understanding. It seemed that all theses westerners that had obtained some status with their honorific Japanese names were grasping something that I was not.

I finally understood that to understand a culture you have to participate in it. I had to do something, not just read and contemplate my navel. I could not just experience it intellectually but had to experience it physically. I needed a way into it, and there enters all the –do’s: Judo, Kendo, Akido, and for me Chado.

Other than reading the pop classic Shogun and watching the mini-series of the same name starring Richard Chamberlin, I had never been exposed to Chado. (Chado is also known as Chanoyu or Japanese Tea Ceremony.) In western culture it is somehow linked to geisha’s, samurai and the images of Hiroshige’s wood-block prints of the Floating World. But one day on a early Sunday afternoon in the Spring of 1984, I found myself in the front room of a 3-flat on Sheffield Avenue in Chicago, fumbling with a fukusa, the silk napkin that hold such an important place in the practice of Chanoyu.

Never having any ability at sports. Never being able to ice skate, roller skate or ride a skateboard because of a complete lack of coordination and balance, I somehow took to the physical aspect of the Tea Ceremony. I was able to pick it up almost instantly. That is other than the kneeling! After taking the four introductory classes twice in one year I was asked by the teacher’s senior student if I wanted to become a student of Tea.

From an American point of view where teachers are often held in low regard and even the lowliest of students think they know more than their professors, I did not grasp what being asked to become a student really meant in Japanese culture. I assumed I’d take a few extra lessons and then just get on with my life. Tea would end up just like the shakuhachi, which is carefully wrapped up and sitting on a shelf in my dining room.

The Japanese concept of the relationship between the teacher and student is much more comprehensive than in the west. Teachers hold a very important place of respect in Japanese culture. Once deciding to enter into a relationship with a teacher, one is committing to a lifetime of studies, knowingly or not. This relationship is not just to learn some specific discipline, that is almost beside the point. The relationship, the study is away towards a certain level of spirituality. It is a gateway or a stepping-stone to a spiritual path.

Now I may be belaboring the concept of spirituality here, I do not think of it in religious terms. In Zen in the Art of Archery by Eugene Herrigel, the point is not to get the point of the arrow into the center of target or to gain some higher level of spirituality; the point is to be totally aware and committed to the process. To the reality and truth of each moment and if one is successful in that, there is no other alternative than the arrow hitting home.

The goal in the study of the “Way’s” is not to obtain a honorific name; to hang another title on one’s self. It is to practice and in practicing, become worthy of it. So in my frivolous beginnings at trying to adopt Japanese culture, I ended up developing skills in how to interact with the world. In every interaction that I have throughout the day this “Way”, I came to realize through the actual physical preparation of tea, has completely altered my perception of the world and how I interact with it.

Tuesday, July 12, 2005

Wearing Kimono


Some twenty years ago, after a lifetime of interest in oriental culture, I discovered Chanoyu, the Japanese Tea Ceremony. At the time I was living Wisconsin and well let’s just say bored. I found myself driving back to Chicago every weekend to take a Tea lesson. The study of Tea at first is very cryptic. You are expected to do things that make no sense. One of these is the way you walk in shuffling short steps.

Years went by and I dutifully moved in the prescribed way. My first teacher, an exuberant woman almost childlike in her enthusiasm for the Japanese culture arts, continued to enforce the choreography that is Tea. And probably because she spoke limited English no explanation was ever forthcoming. When she sadly pasted my new teacher began a discussion with me, of all people, about getting a kimono. I had never imagined I would be wearing kimono. I barely had a suit. So where does a guy like me get a kimono? By this time I knew enough that the usual flamboyant kimonos that you see on women in the movies and in the few stores that sell them would never do. And then there is the question of size.

In Western terms I am perfectly average: heght-5’9”, weight-170lbs, waist-38” and inseam-32”. But in my Tea world I am, well not Michael Jordan but close. Many times over the years while standing with a group of Tea ladies it is commented on how tall I am, great for my ego but bad for procuring a kimono. Right about then one of my classmates, who was much larger in girth than I, was moving to San Francisco to a new life and offered me one of his kimonos. It was a dark brown cotton garment that as I know now is a bit like wearing your sweats to a wedding, but nonetheless I was thrilled to accept it.

This started a completely new chapter in my study of Tea and Japanese culture. It turns out that the kimono is only one part of the ensemble. With the help of my teacher’s daughter, newly returned from studying Tea in Japan, the search was on for the remaining items: obi, hakima, two inner garments, tabi, shoes, etc. One by one the articles were obtained. The inner garments and hakima from my teacher’s trip to Japan; and the obi, tabi and shoes from a local shop.

Now there is not a class in wearing kimono offered in Chicago. Most of the practitioners of Tea are women and the few men that do practice are well men, not given to overly detailed description. So when it was time to attempt dressing myself, other than a few instruction sheets given to me, I was on my own.

Alone in a room with a mirror the first three layers went on, left over right. Then the first hint of a cool breeze whistling around my thighs was the first many new sensations. Most men will understand when I say that this feeling is not the most comforting, but carry on I did. Next came a sash to hold the three layers in place and over that the obi is placed.

If you can pardon a small digression here, I have sailed on Lake Michigan since childhood and cannot help but compare many of my experiences to sailing. Parts of Chanoyu involve knots, very intricate ones and the kimono is no exception. The obi, a four inch wide ten foot long piece of stiff material, is not the easiest thing to imagine a knot in. But a type of square knot is tied into it. The obi and knot, once wrapped around my waist and tied, becomes the foundation for the kimono’s stability.

If it is too loose you are terrified to do anything least it fall apart and run the risk of the kimono becoming completely inoperable. Not the most comforting of feelings, especially if one is seeking tranquility. If too tight, as I would find out one afternoon in front of 100’s of people at Japan Day, you are barely able to breath or move without grimacing.

I could go on but wearing a kimono is a bit like life, a real balancing act. If it is too tight it is completely uncomfortable and restricts you. If too loose you are terrified to do anything least it fall apart an exposure you for who you really are. But if it is just right and balanced one hardly even thinks about it.

Back to my original point, why am I walking like this? The first time I wore kimono, stood up and walked it was a revelation. Suddenly I realized that the movements I had been making, all the short little steps, the kneeling and standing were being taught in terms of these yards of cloth that make up a kimono. It is as if Chanoyu is choreographed to deal with the peculiarities of kimono.

More years have gone by and now gainfully employed, one of the first things I bought was a custom made silk kimono which proved to be as much as a revelation as my first cotton kimono.

Wearing kimono has made me very aware of other people’s garb. From the young Grateful Dead hippy want-to-be to the Sikes on Devon Avenue. Whenever I am about to comment on someone’s dress I always stop and think about what people are thinking of me, this bearded Westerner appearing in his kimono. So, in this way kimono has taught me respect.

Wearing kimono, with the way all the different pieces need to fit together for it to function, has taught me harmony. And, as one learns to care for and store the various parts of the kimono purity is realized. If it is all on, done right with the right mindset a certain feeling of tranquility washes over you. After all, the four tenets of Chanoyu are Purity, Respect, Harmony and Tranquility and I think without the kimono one would be hard pressed to fully realize them.