This is my third day at Harborside Marina on the Des Plaines River. I had planned a more extensive cruise, but stopped short after a harrowing first couple of days spent dodging multiple thousand foot long tows (barge and towboat combinations like on the Mississippi River) and negotiating the thirty foot depths of Lockport and Brandon Road Locks.
The feeling I had before this cruise was similar to the weeks prior to beginning my internship and then at the start of my life as an attending physician. You prepare for years, but in no way feel competent to accomplish the task ahead. Momentum takes over and drives you forward despite your misgivings. A couple of months later it is hard to look back and wonder what the fuss was all about.
This journey downstream through the Main and South Branches of the Chicago River, the Chicago Sanitary & Ship Canal to the Des Plaines and Illinois Rivers feels similar. After having read extensively, studied the charts, talked to many boaters and years spent wandering around Lake Michigan, I finally decided to take a "practice" cruise south to see what all the fuss is about.
Well, the fuss is justified. Most of the inhabitants of the Chicagoland area have no idea this world-within-a-world exists. If it were not for this world Chicago would not exist. Or at least not on the scale that it does today.
The raw materials that keep the city moving, the streets ice free and our cars rusting; that keep the city warm or cool and bathed in perpetual light; that keep the new skyscrapers climbing. All this stuff and more floats in on barges pushed along by towboats from four stories tall to the cute little yard tugs that begin to appear the closer we creep towards the center of Chicago.
The scale of the industry is massive, as is the horsepower harnessed to move the vast quantities of coal from the West, sand from the shores of Lake Michigan, concrete from China, scrap metal from the alleys of Chicago, Midwest corn and soybeans, processed petroleum products and the waste produced in the process of keeping our megalopolis functioning.
Intermixed amongst this drab functional landscape are a few quaint sections of the old waterway: forested and meticulously lined with sand stone. The labor of the immigrants that went into creating this path from the Atlantic Ocean to the Gulf of Mexico is evident.
There is a faint whiff of Chicago even fifty miles downstream. It is an odor I am familiar with from many days spent boating on the North Branch of the Chicago River and the legacy of the infamous reversal of the Chicago River.
Finally able to relax I sit in my favorite spot, the pilothouse of Carrie Rose, our 32 foot Nordic Tug, and read a few words then dose off for a few. I am gently awakened by the presents of a behemoth tow as it ghosts by.
I look towards it and haphazardly glance out a sliver of the port rear window: a spider sits suspended in its handiwork, waiting; a large horse fly lands on the stainless steel stanchion that surrounds the upper deck and settles in for I know not what; a yellow butterfly appears, as in the back ground a Great Blue Heron glides along the ripples of the river; a large fish breaks the surface of this no wake zone to create a disturbance that slightly rocks the boat.
All this happened in an instant on a lazy warm afternoon at the tail end of my 42nd year on the water. It is haiku like, but with too many syllables.
How could I have guessed that my interest in Japanese culture would lead to this at once inconsequential and significant moment of awareness. How do I say this. How do I thank a culture for providing me with sustenance over a lifetime.
For providing me with fast friends, with multiple experiences that I never would have imagined as working-class kid from Chicago, with the opportunity to speak to thousands of people and to travel to distant lands.
How do I thank the Japanese people for cherry and plum blossoms, sake and sushi, indigo dye and silk kimonos. What is there to say to the genius of Hokusai's 100 Views of Mt. Fuji and Basho's Narrow Road to the Deep North.
What do I say to a culture whose trains run on time and fly like the wind. Whose simple food is designed like fine art and whose art celebrates nature in its most sublime form.
How do I thank my guides to the world of Chanoyu, the Tea Ceremony. Both Mrs. Hamano and Minnie Kubose, now sadly passed, and Joyce Kubose (very much alive) who for the last twenty years have taught me Japanese culture hands and knees on.
What can I say about the tea, flowers, ceramics, architecture, calligraphy, wood work, gardens and ultimately, the philosophy that ties Chado, the Way of Tea, together and without which my life would be sadly diminished.
What is there to say on this warm autumn day floating on the river, but a heartfelt domo arigato gozaimasu.
